A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec     

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.     

Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.     

ODP与冲绳海槽海底热水活动研究

本文简要介绍了ＯＤＰ与海底热水活动研究，冲绳海槽中部现代海底热水活动区热水活动研究简况及其热水活动特征；就冲绳海槽中部热水活动研究中存在的问题与ＯＤＰ在冲绳海槽热水区钻探的科学目标进行了讨论。     

太平洋西部3个岩芯沉积物的粒度组成及其天然湿容重和含水量的变化

本文讨论了太平洋西部3个岩芯孔的粒度组成、天然湿容重和含水量的变化。沉积物组成以粉砂和粘土细粒为主,砂粒含量很少,而且多为有孔虫介壳。容重与沉积物粒度呈正相关,含水量则呈负相关。当粒度组成不变时,容重随岩芯埋藏深度的增加而增大,而含水量则减少。     

海上平台桶形基础模型压力压贯与负压沉贯试验研究

介绍了海上平台桶形基础模型（模型桶）压力压贯和负压沉贯的试验概况,对比分析了两者贯入力的巨大差异和产生的原因,给出了模型桶压力压贯中贯入深度与压力的关系,负压没贯负压与贯入深度,抽吸泵流量,基土渗流量,桶内土塞隆起之间的关系,试验结果表明,负压沉贯可以大大降低以砂质粉土为基土的土抗力,为在胜利油田类似基土海域海上平台应用桶形基础提供了试验依据,为海上现场导管架桶形基础平台的安装就位施工和控制提供了     

绒螯蟹种质资源研究进展

本文综述了近年来有关绒螯蟹属在形态学、遗传学和育种学方面的研究进展 ,着重介绍了同工酶、RAPD和 mt DNA技术在绒螯蟹群体遗传学中的应用 ,提出遗传学分类标准的建立是绒螯蟹属分子分类的关键所在。     

斑节对虾(Penaeus monodon)蛋白质的氨基酸分析

１９９３年分析了不同大小斑节对虾肌肉中游离氨基酸含量和肌肉蛋白质 的氨基酸组成。虾体肌肉中有各种游离氨基酸存在，但数量很少，而且比例与肌肉 中结合氨基酸不一致。不同大小斑节对虾，其肌肉中氨基酸组成基本一样，不同的 是小虾的半胱氨酸、蛋氨酸含量比中虾、成虾的低；成虾的缬氨酸、异亮氨酸含量比 小虾、中虾的低，而酪氨酸、苯丙氨酸、天门冬氨酸较高。随着虾体的长大，甘氨酸、 丙氨酸的含量逐渐下降，而脯氨酸的含量升高。雌雄虾的氨基酸组成基本一致，只 是雄虾的甘氨酸含量偏低，精氨酸含量偏高。     

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.